So, I located the relay.  I pulled it and put it back in, no change.

However, it turned out that I had one of those same relays from the donor
van I got my manual transmission stuff from.  So, I put it in, and I had
wipers!  But then I tested intermittent and the pump, and I think it was
when I tried to put it down to the intermittent (it's down for
intermittent, right?) that it quit working, and I couldn't get it to run on
low or high after that.

I seem to recall that intermittent mode quit working during a rainy return
home right before I started the transmission work (several years ago).

Anyway--I'm beat for the night.  Tomorrow I'll try tracing the circuit a
little further now that I have move of an idea where things are.

Thanks again so much for your help, David!

mike

On Sat, Jun 1, 2013 at 8:29 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:

> At 08:33 PM 6/1/2013, Mike South wrote:
> Do the heater blower and rear defrost work?
>
>
>  Nope.  Heater blower does not work, and I am sure I tested that
>> after the dash was on because I used the switch on the outside of
>> the dash to do it.
>>
>>  If so, the load reduction relay and its drive from the X terminal
>> of the ignition switch is good.
>>
>>
>> I pre-emptively replaced the ignition switch with a new one when I
>> was putting the dash back on.  I know that new does not equal good,
>> and also that you should suspect the part you put on last,
>> first.  How can I test if power is coming off that terminal?
>>
>
> If the headlights work (key on) then the ignition switch X contact is good.
>
> Key on, rear defrost switch on, verify B+ between two terminals of
> rear window element.  If yes, load reduction relay is ok, check for
> problem at fuse S10.
>
>
>  Also where is that load reduction relay, and how would I check it?
>>
>
> Third hole from the left, see 97.10
>
> To test, pull it, diagram the labeled terminals, replace it.  If
> everything now works you had poor contact in the socket.
>
> Pull relay again, measure voltages to ground as follows (97.66 at
> top)in this order:
> Terminal 30 - B+ regardless of key.  If not present, make sure your
> meter ground is good and can read B+ at top of Fuse S8.  If so, 4
> mm^2 red wire loop to top of fuse S8.
> Terminal 86 - B+ with key on, zero with key off.  If no, wiring from
> there to ignition key X terminal.
> Terminal 85 - ~0 V.  If so, check with relay in and key on, still
> should be ~0 V.  If it's B+ instead, bad ground from there to star
> clusters forward of fuse/relay panel.  In that case, the 4-way
> flashers also will not work.
> Terminal 87 - Replace relay, check for B+ with key on, zero with key
> off.  If zero, very high likelihood bad relay.  If relay bad, you can
> in emergency remove and open the relay and solder a 4 mm^2 jumper
> between terminals 30 and 87.  If you do this wipers, heater blowers
> (rear heater blower left off diagram apparently), and rear defrost
> will be live at all times.
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> Does washer pump work?  If so then you've eliminated fuse S10 as a
>> problem.
>>
>>
>> If S10 is the tenth fuse starting from the driver's door, the fuse
>> looks ok.  However, with the key on, there is no power on either end
>> of the fuse.
>>
>
> Ok, see above.
>
> Yrs,
> d
>